Are big wave surfers big fat liars?

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Big wave surfers will lie to your face, even if they love you – especially if they love you.

And artists, passionate about their work, and police officers and firefighters, they do the same thing too.

Anyone given over to their passion will look you in the eye, and with their whole soul exposed, tell you a truth which will later turn out to look – and feel – like a bald-faced lie.

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