Dane Reynolds is a B-side surfer because he never wanted to be an A-side competitor. And we just love him the way he is.
Have you got 11 minutes to spare? Watch “Sampler” and get truly inspired for your upcoming session. The (only) surfer from Ventura, California, seems to excel in laid-back moments. When there’s no pressure, no scores, and no one’s watching around.
“Every time you do something, the expectation is that whatever you do next has to be better. Do you understand how unsustainable that is? The pressure caused by this principle has stressed me out, burned me out; I eventually cracked, hid out, dropped out, turned away,” writes Reynolds, in his introduction to “Sampler”.