How to take a beating in surfing

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Getting pounded by an overhead shore break wave is tough, and it can get worse if you’re held underwater for more than your lungs authorize you to.

Taking a beating in big waves is a bit like dying – it’s a very personal and solo experience. But calm down, there’s good news – only rarely do people die/drown in this situation.

Learning to deal with brutal wipeouts can be painful but, in surfing, there will always be a few moments when you wish you were at home watching inspiring movies about surfing in tropical waters.

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