It has happened to us many times. When we get to the beach, we watch the swell lines on the horizon, and anxiety starts kicking in. Everything seems to stop. So, from here on out, just promise yourself you won’t take the first wave of the set. Ever.
Those who love surfing know it. The surf simply takes control of our brain. And it is always the same old game: the perfect wave lines are breaking smoothly as you put your wetsuit on and, by the time your waxing down your surfboard, your heart is already pumping to the sound of waves. Check.
“Must get out-the-back before it gets too bad to surf”, we think. Check. So, when we let emotions take over our brain, we frequently end up making the worst choices. At least in surfing. That is why, sometimes, you have to stop for a while and use the grey matter.