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Big wave surfing pioneer Ricky Grigg passes away

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Ricky Grigg: no fear | Photo: Donald James

Big wave surfer and oceanographer Ricky Grigg has passed away at 77, in Honolulu, Hawaii.

Grigg was one of the first big wave riders of all time. To be more precise, he was constantly chasing waves. Born in 1937, in Los Angeles, Grigg began surfing at only nine.

He never let surfing interfere with his studies. In 1958, he got a B.S. in Biology, at Stanford University, and heads to Hawaii to explore the large swells. His detractors have always pointed out his “intellectual arrogance”.

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